Reflections: People Along the Way 1

I am now at home, transitioned from pilgrim to tourist to weary traveler to just another retired guy.  And I am ready to type. Next will be Pepe, stay tuned!

I promised a few posts about some of the special people I enjoyed on my recent travel, and I'll start with one I promised back on September 14th.

Katherine is from Florida, and admits to being 77 years mature. She started from the same place I did at about the same time. We met in the first days of walking and got to know one another.  Like me, it was her first Camino, and she was enjoying being on the Way. As it often goes, we walked at different paces and didn't see each other for some time.

Then on September 10 we met each other again along the trail. After catching up on our experiences along the way we stopped at a pilgrim information office just as we entered the town of Logroño and she happened to point out the albergue where she wanted to stay that evening, and I circled it on my map to see if they had a bed for me too.  We then headed into town across a beautiful old stone bridge with two way traffic.

We were talking as we walked and all of a sudden she fell off the curb into traffic.  It was so unexpected that she didn't even have time to put out her hands to break the fall.  I jumped out and stopped traffic but as looked I saw her face down with blood around her head.

The passenger in the first car jumped out to help and, just in case there was any doubt that God cared, he was an off-duty police officer!  Others also got out of the their cars to offer help.  I made sure she was OK before moving her onto the sidewalk. The blood was from a cut under her chin, and she was fortunate that no teeth, nose or glasses were broken. The policeman had a two-way radio with him and explained that they would get a doctor to check her out and, if needed, get her to a hospital.

I offered to go get her a bed at the albergue she wanted, which was only blocks away, and come back. She gave me her full name and I was off, knowing that it would take some time for help to arrive and that she was in good hands with the people there.

I crossed that bridge over the Ebro river and made it to the Albergue Santiago Apostle (Hostel of the Apostle James) and they had one bed left!

I paid for it in Katherine's name hoping the she would be able to get there for the night. I ran back to the scene of the fall and she was gone! Having no way to know where she was I just trusted that she'd give that place a try if and when she got finished with treatment.  I then went about finding a place for myself a little further into town.  I checked back a few times that evening and they had not heard from her.

It was Saturday night and I planned to attend a 8am mass at the cathedral in Logroño.  There was a festival in the square in front of the church that night and I enjoyed great street food and refreshing ice cream there as well.  Did I mention that the food in Spain was really good?

I returned to her albergue in the morning and she had never shown up.  I was concerned but what could I do?  So off to the cathedral I went, but found streets blocked as they were setting up for a marathon that morning.  When I got to the cathedral they were hosing down the square and there were barricades all over the place.  So I decided to just start walking, but not before getting a cafe con leche.  

As I sat in a cafe, enjoying that sweet addictive drink, in walks Katherine!  She had six or seven stitches, her jaw was sore but she was OK.  It turns out she slept on the floor someplace but was ready to continue her walk!

The picture you see at the top of this blog was taken that morning, can't even see the handiwork under her chin.  We walked together most of that Sunday and I didn't see her again until Samos, weeks later.  She was still doing great and we shared some time together while touring the Monastery of Saint Julian. I feel sure she completed her Camino though I did not run into her again.  She was a fine companion and an inspiration to me along the Way.

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T.O.J. today is Robert Allen Zimmerman, likely known to you as Bob Dylan, Noble Laureate in Literature.

Historic Istanbul: Beautiful, Flavorful, Faith Full

Hagia Sophia under moonlight

Istanbul has long been my favorite International city, based on a brief visit some 20 years ago on my way to and from a working trip to Central Asia. It is here that East meets West and this part of the city contains a concentration of historical places that appeal to me.

Now 20 years may be a long time in one's life and my friends from Turkey and who know Turkey all pointed out that "things have changed" since I last walked these streets. I am happy to report that the AND Hotel, where I stayed in 1997 is still here and better than ever. The staff are still low key and friendly, the breakfast on the roof is even better than before, the view of the nearby historic buildings clearer as a neighboring tall building was removed, and the streets are still filled with shops, restaurants and lots of people.

The Blue Mosque

Hagia Sophia

The pictures show two of the most famous destinations in Istanbul as seen from our hotel room terrace: the Hagia Sophia, a 6th century church and the Blue Mosque, built in the 16th century. We spent time yesterday at the mosque, including an hour with an Imam who presents information sessions for visitors. We were fortunate to be the only two people attending this particular session as it began, so the standard 30 minute talk stretched out as we asked questions and discussed our views on issues related to the Abrahamic faith traditions.

We were joined in the middle of the session, just as we were discussing the Hajj, by a Syrian couple, the husband having made this pilgrimage, a very special time in the life of a Muslim believer. The Imam himself had not yet been able to go and was thrilled to get input from this visitor.  Having this conversation made the time even more special for me. 

Tomorrow we plan to visit the Hagia Sophia as it was closed today. This was a place that captured my heart and imagination so many years ago, and I trust that it will do so again for both of us. 

We leave this wonderful place at 6 am on Wednesday and by the end of that day will lay our heads on our own pillows in our own home. It has been almost two wonderful months of discovery for me and two weeks for Ann. 

I have more stories to tell and will add a few more blogs from home. I did unfortunately leave my main cell phone with most of the pictures of my trip in the car taking us to the airport in Paris, but I have spoken to the driver and will be getting it back somehow, but the picture sharing will be delayed for a week or so. 

We are both doing well, trying hard to put on any pounds I lost on the Camino eating wonderful French and Turkish cuisine. I love this place!

Paris: History Unfolds in the City of Lights

Our departure from Spain was eventful, and I'll sum it up with advice to get to the airport early and close it for now with the fact that I know how to get a lost or stolen passport replaced while traveling overseas.

Ann had come in via Madrid airport, and did not have a good experience, so as we traveled that way back to Paris I got to see why she was a bit distressed.

But we made it to Paris and our driver from mydriver.com was there waiting for us.  This service was way better than a cab for me. Time to clear the airport was just a few minutes thanks to the EU.

Our AirBnB apartment is on the island in the Seine River behind Notre Dame. It is called Île St-Louis and is a great location for walkers. In fact, to give one extra steps each day, it is up 4 floors, and the ground floor is zero. The building is likely 18th century, the stairs are pretty amazing. But we made it to the top and we're rewarded by being able to spend time together in the kind of space we love.

The first day was devoted to just going for a walk. Those who have been here know that almost every public building is on steroids, and shops are tiny. We found the basic necessities in our neighborhood - Ice Cream, bakery, wine, cheese and Ibuprofen. Oh, and olives too.

Then we walked around Notre Dame, the Louvre, Tuileries Gardens (our favorite spot that day), Marche des Fleur's, Sainte Chapelle and a couple of cafés. Paris is a great place for walking, we got in about 15000 steps, a lot for Ann and a day off for me.

Today we had a wonderful walking tour with Paul (and his wife Paulina) and a dozen others.  He is a French young man with international roots who is a history buff (recent and centuries back) and offers these walking tours on a 'pay what you think it is worth' basis. The photo shows Paul explaining Napoleon Bonaparte's final years with the Museum of the Army in the background. The gold dome behind that is where the tomb of Bonaparte rests, the Dôme des Invalides. That is real gold, folks.

The tour was priceless for us. I strongly suggest that you spend 4 hours with Paul if you visit Paris. More details are available at www.wegowalking.com. Oh, and he has a great sense of humor.

We followed up the tour with lunch on a street he suggested, Rue Clare, away from the tourist traps. Ann had very nice salmon with roasted vegetables and I enjoyed lamb curry with couscous. And since there is always room for Crème Brulé, we shared one of those.

Then our first Metro ride to buy warm clothes, it is much colder here than we (or the French) expected, high 40s to mid 60s. Then back to our island home for a light dinner.

Tomorrow it is Versailles on the train and   Saturday we will visit Musée de l'Orangerie and Musée d'Orsay before heading to the airport for a flight to Athens and then the next morning on to Istanbul.

This trip has been saturated with the history of Islam and the Catholic form of Christianity. I wasn't aware of that plan when I arranged the order of the places, but it is a good balance. I have learned a lot, all for less time and treasure than a semester of tuition. And I am in the best physical condition of my life.

In addition, the Camino friends have opened opportunity to visit another dozen countries. I am blessed.

Finisterre: Kilometer Zero of The Camino

Much to my delight my wife, Ann, arrived late Saturday night and we have been seeing the sights in Santiago de Compostela, a world class tourist destination judging by the hundreds of non-pilgrim people filling the streets and squares.

On Sunday we enjoyed a standing room only pilgrim's Mass followed by a lunch outside the Cathedral with one of my Camino family members, Julie.  

Ann is enjoying her time here, especially all the artistic stone carving in and on the buildings.  We lucked upon a featured exhibit of alabaster religious objects from around the world displayed in a unique area of the cathedral. It included several two and three dimensional items that were painted, something I had not seen before.

Monday we took a bus tour to Muxia (pronounced like moo-chi-a) and Finisterre, the western-most point in Europe, and hence the known world at that time, by the Romans.  For many this is the true end to one's pilgrimage.  While I got there in a bus, I can say that I would have enjoyed walking there had time allowed. I am not a good bus rider.

We are back in town resting before our last supper in Santiago de Compostela. Tomorrow evening we will fly to Paris to see how Notre Dame compares with the similar cathedral in León.

I believe that this time in Spain will remain a highlight of my life, and I feel confident that I will be back for more.

Bird's eye view of the Camino Frances

If you have any interest in doing this walk, here is a bird's eye view of the terrain you will cover. As I was planning my walk I watched this a few times.

Now that I have done it, the terrain is a very minor player in the experience. It is beautiful, it is challenging, it sometimes provides figs, raspberries and grapes - but mostly it is the canvas upon which the stories of our lives are painted in foot steps.

If you walk the Camino your experience will be unique and you will find the answer to some question that you might not have asked yourself.

Enjoy the video.

All's Well That Ends...

We strolled into Santiago de Compostela at about 2 pm yesterday and already it seems like a dream. 500 plus miles and incalculable vertical changes delivered us to a most lovely city in what may be the most attractive part of the Way.

Galacia is just inviting. Lush and green, moist air, smells of the forest, and colorful people. Besides, I have a tee shirt that says that Galacia is probably the best place on earth. It is easy to buy the argument.

Upon arrival we checked into our Albergue, the largest by far of the whole walk, Seminario Menor, with over 200 beds. I am staying there an extra night in a private room. I don't know what I'll do being able to turn lights on or off when I please.

Then we walked to the Cathedral where I ran into Francesca, the first person I spent time with on the first day. How exciting that was to see her again.

After some required hugging, tears and expressing our lessons learned to one another, we got in line for our official certificate of completion, the Compostela.

It was a long line, well over an hour, but it was so nice to be there with others that understood themselves better than when they started the Way.

After that we attended a Mass during which we were treated to the swinging Botafumeiro, a huge container of incense swinging over the worshippers, while a magnificent pipe organ played. While I understand little Spanish nor the details of the Catholic Mass, I'll say that the Spirit moved in that place.

This was followed by our ritual of eating great local food. If I had not walked 500 miles I would have gained a lot of weight here.  As it is my pants are falling off.

Today I am pretty much on my own, doing some shopping for warmer clothes, seeing the wonderful buildings, and finding others who shared this experience with me to get them to sign my Galacia shirt.

We all agree that there are no words to generalize this experience to those who have yet to experience it. Again, I plan to share some stories of my Camino family in the next week or two when I get to a keyboard.

T.O.J. today is Christ who's life created this peculiar experience.

Bridges back to home

The entry into Santiago de Compostela is a moment filled with emotion - the completion of the historic walk brings closure but at the same time a return to life as it was before one takes the first steps on their personal journey.

And leaving my Camino family is really hard. We come from Spain, Italy, Hungary, Argentina and the U.S.

The plan is to arrive in Santiago de Compostela tomorrow, Thursday afternoon, attend the pilgrim mass at the cathedral on Friday and then our Camino family moves in different directions, some visiting Spanish friends, some walking to Finisterre, some going on by bus or returning home. We are all dealing with this separation in our own ways.

One is celebrating their 50th birthday on October 8 and I hope to join her for a dinner before going to the airport to meet Ann.

I will have more to say and more pictures after I have some time to process it all. I can say that I have never experienced the pure joy, discovery and love that this walk provides, wrapped up in what presents itself in an impossible physical activity.

If you believe that the Creator orders your steps as I do, the Camino will confirm your belief.  If you don't believe it, well you might think about Einstein's statement "Coincidence is God's way of remaining anonymous." When I get to a keyboard I will share some details of the Coincidences with you.

I encourage you to begin your Camino wherever you are and see what you find out about yourself. Discover for yourself what blessings are out there waiting for your eyes to be opened. Taking this walk across Spain has become an addictive thing for many people, and I now understand why.

T.O.J. today is Gary Shapiro (don't Google it, just a personal friend).

What am I packing?

This post presents a shift back to the practical and responds to Peter's question regarding just what I am carrying on my back.

The quick answer is "Too much..."

The Camino infrastructure provides both a place to lay one's head and places to eat great, reasonably priced food. So I carry neither tent nor cooking gear.

In my 48 liter backpack I do have a very light sleeping bag, a pillow case and what amounts to clothes for three days.  This is light weight hiking pants and tee-shirts, 6 pairs of socks, a pair of outrageously expensive shoes that hurt my feet and a pair of Birkenstock EVA sandles that I have worn about half the miles as well as all the plane, train and bus miles and the week in Morocco.

Other clothing items include a FrogToggs poncho, a fleece jacket I wear almost 24 hours a day and a warm-up suit I bought here as a thermal layer and a high-visibility item for walking near traffic.

Zip-lock bags carry chargers, memory chips, cables, an eyeglass repair kit and some small tools. A medical kit includes a first aid kit, a course of ampicillin (just in case), and Voltaren gel that I use for everything.

Another bag has the standard Benadryl, Ibuprofen, and motion sickness stuff. I have not used any of that so far.

The foot care sack is huge and I should give it all away, as since I started wearing the sandals I have had no problems. I do rub the feet at night with Voltaren gel and in the morning with Vaseline.

There is a small day pack that I use walking around in the cities and as a carry-on for air travel.

I routinely carry snacks like Chocolate Extrafino Negro (what you know as 85% chocolate) that is dirt cheap here, salted nuts and often a chorizo sandwich, two half liter water bottles, refilled at fountains in most towns, and some granola bars for quick sugar boosts in the afternoon.

A camping towel, toiletries and glasses about wrap up the list. I have an old iPhone which has a very useful Camino app and I use a very low end Moto E to do this writing, make phone calls with a Spanish SIM, some mapping and to take photos.  I have a tiny camera as well but don't use it much. I have a map, a journal that you get to see sometimes, and pencils.

If I had to do it again, and I am pretty sure that will happen, I'd bring two changes of clothes, no foot care stuff, better shoes and a new pair of Birkenstock EVAs in a 30 liter pack.

TMI? Well, I am hoping that some of you feel called to have this experience and that you might learn from my choices.  I will be writing about the whole trip after I get done. Right now I cannot imagine anything on earth nearer to whatever heaven promises. I am continuously amazed by the people, sights, food, time to think and the true joy of just walking down the path.

Janice,  Julie and Pilar

Tonight we are in Portomarin, less than 100 km (60 miles) from the end in Santiago de Compostela. Ann will be meeting me there on October 8, and we will explore the region together. Hopefully some of my Camino family will be able to meet her as well.

Camino as Model of Life - 2

My first post on this subject dealt with learning as we did as children - step by tiny step, integrating the self-discovery and input from observation as well as input from others.

Today I want to explore with you the simplicity of the process, like the "Bones of the Camino" post, but from a more spiritual angle. And my definition of spiritual may be different than how you now understand it. Please stay with me on this.

I am one American guy (read as privileged) putting one foot in front of the other between 30,000 and 50,000 times each day with everything I have in a backpack.

I am doing this with thousands of other people of like mind. The fact that so many are called to do this walk is an amazing phenomenon. Please understand that this is a very difficult walk. I have given up several times and my Camino 'family' has kept me going. 

It is hot, it is cold, the climb is demanding and the descent challenging. Sleeping in a room with 6 to 60 strangers is unusual.

The other day I was walking with a pilgrim from California and we discussed that only a tiny fraction of the world's population is able to invest 5 or 6 weeks in making an experience such as this.  What a luxury it is to be able to be a part of this community.

Within hours of that discussion we encountered an exhibit about the refugee situation in Europe.  These people often find themselves walking with what few things they were able to preserve from their homes, their kids and their dreams. There are no pilgrim meals, no hot showers, no safe  housing they can expect to be available at the end of the day.

Yet, in at least some cases, these people felt a calling to find a better life away from strife and war. Is this calling any less important to the creator? Do their steps count as mine?

And how many people are refugees of the war in their own lives, the strife of the some lack of privilege? I ask you to be in prayer for those refugees and those who's lives are impacted by them. It is not a new problem, and we see each day some signs of the struggle if we keep our eyes open.

I have less than 100 miles to go on this Camino, Santiago is feeling close and once again my plans change so that our perfectly balanced Camino family can enjoy one more day together.