Why Astorga?

Thinking back a couple of years to my desire to live in Spain, I believe it was Astorga that captured my imagination on what living in this new culture would entail.  It wasn't a tiny hamlet with few services and people.  It wasn't a large city with hustle and bustle.  It was historic, beautiful, had a train station to enable friends to come to visit and for us to explore the continent. There are few foreigners living there.  Castillian Spanish is the language, not one of the many dialects.

It is located in the north part of Spain, in Leon Province, just east of Galacia.  It is along the French route and the Via de la Plata from Sevilla meets the French route there.  So there is lots of Camino activity to enjoy.

Most of all it includes the wonderful memory of the gelato shop, Veretium.  Yes, the gelato shop was, and is, a key factor in the decision to locate here.  Most of my friends have heard this story, often more than once, but I'll share it with you so it will be in writing.

Background: For many pilgrims, a major factor in walking the Camino de Santiago is the formation of a 'Camino Family' which develops organically and without much effort as one walks along paths, eats meals, washes clothes and shares our lives.  I use the term 'fall in love' as a wrapper for this process.  I fell in love with hundreds of people from all over the world, some of whom I wasn't even able to speak to or understand because they spoke no languages that I understood at a cognitive level.  But no problem, share a meal and laughter and that is all it took.

The Camino Family

After some weeks a core group developed, and they were all younger than me, mostly female. Somewhat out of character for me, I felt that they didn't need this old guy with them all the time.  So I made some effort to 'give them space' by staying back one town along the way.  But our bond was love and after being apart from them for a couple of days I could no longer stand it.  I got up one morning early and was determined to catch up to them.




I walked hard and fast and with long strides.  52000 odd steps (about 25 miles) later I entered the town of Astorga, walking past chocolate shops with their attractive goods in the windows. Then I saw an ice cream cone sign a couple of blocks away - and being an ice cream addict - picked up the pace and entered the shop in expectation of cool, sweet, rich flavor and goodness. 

But what I saw was so much much more exciting.  It was a great event on a long day of walking and exceeded my expectations greatly: Ice cream and family together!

As I entered the door I saw and heard Stephanie, my Camino 'daughter,' saying to her Aunt Janice and another pilgrim I had yet to meet "... too bad Ron's not here, he'd love this place."  But I was there, and I hugged them and enjoyed my hard earned treat. 

Afterward, we ate on the square, I got to know the other pilgrim, Julie, and never saw much of Astorga as my heart was focused upon my family.  But the place occupied a special place for me.

Gaudi Episcopal Palace

But Astorga has a lot more to offer than just that Gelato shop and the chocolate culture.  It is small, about 10 - 12,000 people, has a long history as a crossroads in culture, trade and two Camino routes and even a history of being a place that was tolerant and kind to the Jewish population in a time when that was not common in Spain.

Ann and I visited Astorga in April of last year and she agreed that this was a wonderful place to call home for a season. It offers views to the east of high plains (La Meseta) like her home state of Kansas and snow-capped mountains to the south and west.

So this place is where we will begin our time in Spain. My current plan is to spend a year here to learn culture and language, interacting with the Camino support groups and making friends. 



In future posts I will cover getting to Astorga, finding an apartment so that you can come to visit us and some stories about the transition. I'm sure it will be filled with learning.

The Other Jew of the Day: In memory of the Jews of Astorga who appear to have been well integrated into the community until the expulsion in 1492.